Jun 20 2012

The Great Tinhorn Surprise

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 4:29 am

20120619-212941.jpgOk, let me just start out by stating a couple of things:

1 – Merlot, on it’s own, from anywhere in the world, has never really excited me.
2 – I tend to avoid wines with a high stated alcohol by volume (ABV). I drink wine with food and my food doesn’t really like highly alcoholic wines.

Enter this week’s wine from Tinhorn Creek – the Merlot 2009. If my neighbours would be so kind as to take down their house, I would have a great view of this winery. (I mentioned that once about my other neighbour’s trees which blocked our southern view and then 6 months later after a wind storm, he cut them all down except one. Now we have a great view.)

Check out that ABV – 14.8% – Yikes! What was going to happen with my spicy BBQ pork steaks? I know this wine may have been slightly mismatched. But as a wine-guy and not a traditional ‘foodie’, when matching wines I try to err on the side of the wine. This means that even if the food isn’t as good as I’d hoped, the wine will still shine through above it.

The whole issue of high alcohol was put to rest with the first comment from my wife when she tasted the wine: “Wow, is this low alcohol?”

Hmmm…

20120619-212949.jpgSo here’s the deal. This wine’s stated ABV is high.

And it’s a Merlot.

But this wine is balanced – so well that the alcohol doesn’t even stick out. It’s got fruit (tons, not jammy or baked), oak (hints, very well proportioned) and acidity ( very well balanced), and the burn I was expecting from the high alcohol just wasn’t there. Just a long finish of plums, savoury spices, and cocoa. Wonderful stuff it was, and all things that I look for in a wine of any kind.

So, based on this wine, I will re-evaluate my avoidance of high alcohol wines but with some trepidation. Tinhorn Creek has been around for a while and they know how to deal with ‘challenging’ vintages and weird weather. I will likely be more willing to accept a higher alcohol wine from a vineyard of pedigree like that than a newer winery who has only been in business for a few years (i.e. less than a decade). Tinhorn Creek is more than capable of navigating these waters and with product like this humble Merlot, which retails for about $18, they can clearly walk the walk and talk the talk.

And I’ll be listening from now on.

Cheers from wine country!
~Luke

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Jun 12 2012

Rustic Roots Peach Nectarine 2010

Category: Podcastwinepost @ 3:10 pm

OWFS Podcast 7

Stepping outside of the box can be really rewarding.  It used to be that when I thought of fruit wines, it brought to mind my parents’ disastrous flirtation with winemaking when I was a child.  They decided that they would make a batch of cherry wine.  The memory that lingers is the smell and as a result, I resisted venturing into fruit wine territory.  Thanks to wineries like Forbidden Fruit and Rustic Roots in recent years, those traumatic memories have been replaced by much more pleasant sensory experiences.

Luke and I tasted the 2010 Rustic Roots Peach Nectarine table wine together.  Oh the places this wine could go!  I love it when I taste a wine and the culinary possibilities that leap to mind are not limited to one culture or food group.  It was so hard to figure out what I was going to make to go along with this one, simply because I can’t choose.  The nose on this wine is divine; all sunshiny and golden.  ( I realize that those descriptors are not officially smells, but that’s the only way I can really express how it made me feel and after all, wine is an evocative sensory experience!)  The palate was packed with honey and a very distinctly ripe apricot flavor.  It wasn’t sweet though, which is what makes this such a divine wealth of dining options!

After much thought and consideration, I realized that the simplest answer is probably the best.

Our recipe for this delightful wine is a baked brie with a twist.  Since summer is now upon us, we’re going to bake our brie on the bbq!  The list of ingredients is as follows:

  • 1 Wheel of Brie (you might want a big one)
  • A handful of dried apricots
  • Honey
  • Chili flakes
  • Walnut pieces
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Prosciutto
  • A knob of butter
  • An open bottle of the Rustic Roots Peach Nectarine

In a small saucepan, melt the butter.  Add the chopped apricots, honey, chili flakes (we’re going for a bite here, not a searing heat), walnut pieces, salt & pepper.  Cook slowly, creating a candied, chunky, awesome smelling flavor combination.  As you’re cooking, add a little wine from time to time to keep the consistency like that of loose relish.  Once the nuts have toasted a bit, the apricots have absorbed some of the moisture and the wine has reduced a tad, remove the mixture from the heat and pile it on your wheel of brie.

I bet you were wondering what we were going to do with the prosciutto.  All will be revealed!  Separate your slices of prosciutto and use them to wrap your topped brie up like a tasty and exciting present.  Your bbq should be preheated, but make sure it’s not too hot.  We want the prosciutto to be crisp, not burned.  Place your cheesy package on the grill away from direct heat.  Grill until the prosciutto achieves the aforementioned crispness and the cheese has reached that magical temperature of runny goodness.  Remove it before the rind of the cheese bursts though, because it’s a sad thing when the cheese escapes into the bbq burners.

Serve with a selection of crackers & crusty bread and another bottle of the 2010 Peach Nectarine and enjoy thoroughly.  Don’t think about the fat when you’re eating this.  Think about all the calcium you’re getting.

 


Jun 08 2012

Painted Rock Merlot 2008

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 5:01 am

I have to admit something right out front. I’ve been a huge fan of this winery since a trade tasting introduced me to their products in the fall of 2009. A co-worker and I had tasted through a hotel ballroom-full of white wines and then went into the second smaller room to see some of the other wineries there.

20120607-220137.jpgThat’s when a woman walked up to us and said, “Here, try our Chardonnay!” She poured wine in our glasses and we asked her which winery she was from. She said, “We are Painted Rock Estate winery near Penticton and wah wah wah wahwah…” As soon as we took a first whiff of the wine, we completely tuned her out and I remember nothing of what she said. I’m sure she was doing her job fabulously but the wine was speaking louder than she was and nothing she said registered. The chardonnay was amazing.

She offered us other wines that she had but we declined because we still had more whites to try and we wanted to taste through some of the reds before trying the ones from Painted Rock. We wanted to see if they could stand out among the reds the way the Chardonnay stood out. We continued on and progressed to reds before returning to her booth to eagerly try the Painted Rock Merlot, Syrah, and Red Icon, all from the 2007. They, too, stood out among their peers for us that day.

Fast-forward a few years (through buying the first vintage of Merlot, interviewing winery owner John Skinner for my podcast, going to their wine shop when it first opened, trying their wines throughout the summer and again later at other trade tastings) to a recent dinner party with a bottle of their Merlot 2008. At almost 4 years old, this wine still needs more time in the cellar or a group extremely patient dinner guests. The tannins have smoothed out a little and the bouquet has opened up slightly. It is no longer hiding quite so effectively as it once was but it still isn’t offering up the whole deal.

To me, this wine is like looking at a mountain. From my back yard, the mountain I can see to the west doesn’t look very large. It looks like a medium size mountain at best. But if I drive to the east side of town, the perspective changes and it looks way bigger than it seems from my back yard. When I lived in North Vancouver, The 3 north shore mountains didn’t look as impressive from my apartment as they did from downtown Vancouver.

This is how I think my impressions of the Painted Rock Merlot will change. As we get farther away from the vintage, the Merlot will reveal the full altitude of its flavours. That requires a little bit of patience, or at least some degree of forgetfulness so that you don’t remember that such a towering BC wine is in your cellar.

For my money, Painted Rock represents a true and noble Grand Cru of BC wine and one that I will happily be purchasing each and every vintage for years to come. While I enjoyed this Merlot 2008 now, I would have loved to have tasted it in another 5 years. But, sometimes dinner guests aren’t that patient.

Sometimes, I’m not either.

Cheers from wine country!

~Luke


May 29 2012

Desert Hills Mirage – A Classic BC Meritage

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 4:56 pm

Note: I wrote this 2 weeks ago and was about to press the “Publish” button when I noticed that Courtney had just written about the Desert Hills Cab Franc. It might look like all we’ve been drinking is Desert Hills wines this month but I assure you, we have been tasting other wines as well. More wines still to come…

Consistency is the mark of any established winery. A winery that has been through good vintages and bad. Ones that have the ability to sway when the wind blows rather than break. Perhaps that describes the brothers Toor who have taken Desert Hills from a humble vineyard supplying grapes to other wineries (notably the yummy Gamay from Domain de Chaberton) to a winery with a reputation for robustly flavoured reds.

20120529-095639.jpg(When I was tasting my way through BC Gamays a few years ago, the single-most drool-inducing wine that people advised me to try was the Desert Hills Gamay. But that’s another blog post…)

Enter the Mirage 2007 – one of the richest, New-World style, Meritages that BC has produced. I’ve tried vintages on this in the past and am most familiar with the 2005 – rich, velvety, decadently-layered Meritage worthy of Washington state or even California. The 2007 vintage, a hot year and one of the last ‘normal’ growing seasons we’ve had in BC, is dangerously close to the 2005.

I decanted this wine an hour before dinner with friends and visiting family. It was one of 3 wines that evening and was one that I was eager to try. It totally delivered in many ways with a smoothness and complexity that can hold my attention throughout the meal. It was not the only wine at the table that evening, but it was a standout in terms of taste.

My only reservation is it’s acidity, which isn’t so much a comment on the wine making at Desert Hills, as it is on the lineage of the wine’s New-World, fruit-forward style. The ageability of this style is always a big question mark. At almost 5 years old now, it showed well after decanting and in the glass but there was no real noticeable improvement or drastic change to the aromas or flavours. Whereas another wine at the table, only one vintage younger, continued to change, evolve, and get ‘open up’ over the same time period.

Stability of that sorts can be beneficial and in this case, the Mirage ’07 acted as my barometer for the other wines and the food at the meal. To me, consistency of that sort is important enough to call the Desert Hills Mirage out as a true classic BC wine.

Cheers from wine country!

~Luke

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May 19 2012

Desert Hills 2008 Cabernet Franc

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 6:03 am

The Bottle Shot

The perfect storm of hospitality is a beautiful thing. When a friend stops by unexpectedly, and you open up a bottle of wine and settle in for a good, long chat; it promises to be a great night. Although, when you lose track of time and wind up opening three bottles of wine before watching the sun rise, that might officially qualify as getting a little carried away.
The final bottle of the night was a doozy though. I opened the 2008 Desert Hills Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc. Why does the best bottle always have to be the third? It was amazing! The nose was packed with ripe plums and blackberries. On the palate it was all sorts of lush fruitiness, with notes of vanilla, toasted wood and caramel. The tannins were fine and supportive, which made me wonder if I didn’t open this bottle too soon. It always makes me a little sad when I consider the road not travelled. Oh well, there’s always another bottle!


May 13 2012

Easy-Drinking Patio-Sippers and other Wine Phrases

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 11:30 pm

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There are some wines that just work well on their own. Wine writers and sales people sometimes call them “patio sippers” which isn’t really something I’ve latched onto to be perfectly honest. Most any wine can be a “patio sipper” and it depends entirely on what you like about a wine.

Another wine term (let’s start calling them cliché’s) that I’m not fond of is “easy drinking”. Are some wines really difficult to drink? Do you really have to work harder to swallow some wines rather than others? What makes a wine easier to drink than others?

Perhaps why these expressions have been created is to explain a wine that doesn’t require a lot of preparation. There might be occasions when you just don’t have the time, energy, location, or resources to prepare oysters on the half shell every time you want to sip Chablis. Want to have meritage every night but can’t be bothered to have huge lamb and meat dishes each day? Relax, there are some wines that don’t need specific food pairings to fully appreciate what they have to offer.

(Yes, I am one of those people who tries to pair wines appropriately with food. I get more enjoyment from both the food and the wine that way. If you want to drink Pinot Blanc with your rack of lamb because it’s your choice, go for it. I’m not going to stop you from missing out on something.)

The Intrigue Gewürztraminer is one of those wines that really doesn’t need food to make it tasty. It’s totally tasty on its own, and it knows it. It’s got tons of flavour and some sweetness which makes it a great candidate for drinking with spicy foods. But even without any food, it’s great to have as a drink to sip on its own.

You know, like when you’re sitting on a deck. Or maybe an enclosed deck-like location behind your house.

Cheers from wine country!

~Luke


May 10 2012

Smelling is the New Tasting

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 5:25 am

20120509-222509.jpg
I can have problems tasting wine sometimes. It’s always with a similar style of wine – aromatic wines. I am particularly weak around Rieslings and Gewurztraminers but Ortegas, Siegerrebes, Bacchuses, and Ehrenfelsers are also in that category too. I just love how uniquely scented they are. When it’s done right, there is a lot of complex aromas to pick up on and I have been known to take up to 15 minutes just smelling a wine before even taking the first sip.

It is with this attitude that I approached the Arrowleaf Gewürztraminer 2010. It had a great nose of flowers and perfume with a hint of Fruit Loops. (Honestly, the repertoire of proper aromatic descriptors is seriously lacking in our culture.)

The palate was slightly off-dry with a little acidity to keep it from getting flabby. Flavours were the same as on the nose – more flowers and perfumey and then… It was like it had stopped in mid-sentence. The wine disappeared. I took another sip and tasted the lovely flavours again and then it was gone. The finish was annoyingly quick. The nose of this wine was writing cheques that the palate couldn’t cash.

Still when it was there, it was beautiful and reminded me of my love of Gewürztraminer from BC.

Cheers from wine country!

~Luke


Apr 26 2012

Robin Ridge Chardonnay

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 3:00 pm

Similkameen, Similkameen

How long has it really been?

To taste your grapes and drink your wine

Is getting to be quite divine.

Bad poetry, great wine. I’m not a poet and I’m quite sure that everyone knows it. At least now they do.

What I’d like to know is how many people have tried wine from the Similkameen Valley lately? If you haven’t yet, you are truly missing out. There are some solidly built wines coming from the Similkameen these days. Considering that even 5 years ago there were almost no wines from this valley making it to store shelves, this is probably one of the fastest growing wine regions in BC.

20120422-220348.jpg
There are lots of vineyards and orchards in “the Sim”. It is a very rural valley with lots of farms of all kinds. There is a noticeable lack of civilization there – no big urban areas, no strip malls, no large parking lots and no traffic lights until Princeton, possibly, although I’m not even sure Princeton has one either.

It from here that Robin Ridge’s Chardonnay comes. For as relaxed a pace as the Similkameen offers, this wine delivers and intensity that almost belies it’s provenance.

I will go on record here to say that I like Chardonnay and always have. It never went out of fashion for me. I like them both oaked and unoaked and love that it can be a lot of different things. Yes, for a while there was a fashion that made some chards into a big bottle of buttered popcorn and that got out of hand but thankfully, we’ve come away from that here in BC at least.

The Robin Ridge Chardonnay still points in that direction with a subtle oak treatment which only intensifies its complexity. It is everything that I look for in a chardonnay.

But wait, there’s more.

It has something different that many BC chardonnay’s don’t have. If you taste it at just the right temperature, it has a mineral note that hides until the finish and writes a little name in scribbled handwriting, as if the Similkameen were adding its signature to the wine’s flavour profile. It’s a signature that’s written on a lot of wines coming out of the Similkameen and it makes wines there distinct, even in these early days of BC wine.

It isn’t only Chardonnay that Robin Ridge makes well. The Robin Ridge Gamay accompanied the turkey-based entrée created by Chris VanHooydonk, executive chef at the Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl, as he won top spot at the Similkameen Barbecue Championship in July 2011. Pinot Noir and Merlot are other wines to try from this winery as well, if you can find them!

Cheers from wine country!

~Luke


Apr 22 2012

A Deuce from Red Rooster

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 7:05 am

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The boutique-winery brand of Andrew Peller has really started to stand out on its own lately with some super tasty wines that really show what a great bottle of wine can be. Winemaker Karen Gillis is probably the one to take most of the blame for this and is a great example of how great a winery can be in they can hang on to the same wine maker for more than 3 years. She’s been there since 2007 making this past vintage her sixth at Red Rooster.

What happens when a winemaker is allowed to get to know the fruit over time? Fabulous wines. Awards and accolades. Stuff like that.

Exhibit A is the Red Rooster Chardonnay 2010 which took home a Gold at the Canadian Wine Awards in 2011 and retails for about $18. When I tasted it, the nose was full of cantaloupes, vanilla, peach fuzz, and sweet herbs. The palate was extremely well balanced with melon, butterscotch, and lemon flavours and a finish that lasted until the credits rolled. It was a $30 chard in disguise.

Red Rooster’s Reserve Meritage 2009 is at a different point in its life and I almost felt bad for opening it so soon. The glass in front of my only confirmed that it was still a little wound up and not ready to show all of its flavours just yet. The nose offered up dark cherries, baking spices, oak, and cherry pie filling. The palate had great acid and tannins with flavours of dark fruits and leather. The big alcohol on this wine did not throw the balance of this wine at all but likely contributed to its velvety texture. As I wrote in my notes, it’s still early on in its potential life but all the elements of a great wine are there.

Check them out if you can find them! Cheers from wine country!

~Luke

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Apr 18 2012

A Journey To A Parallel Dimension….

Category: Wine tastingwinepost @ 5:37 am

I recently returned from the Wine and Jazz Festival at the Golden Nugget Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, as the guests of the fabulous management team. It was a blast! Three days of events centered around the wines of the U.S. (well, mostly California & Oregon).

When I think about the California and Oregon wine industries, I can’t help but think in terms of large, corporate entities, like Gallo or Mondavi. It is so great to get the opportunity to see some of the smaller production wineries up close and personal. Of course, it is Vegas, so during the consumer tasting, you have to talk to the winery reps through a “model”, which can be both frustrating and entertaining at the same time.

On the first night, we enjoyed some excellent live jazz and tasted the sparkling wine lineup from Domaine Carneros by Tattinger, among others.  The 2007 Domaine Carneros was crisp and dry with fine bubbles and refreshing flavours of green apples and citrus and a comforting yeasty note on the finish.  Their rose bubbly (a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes) was a tad lush, with berry notes and fine tannins on the finish.

On the second night, I felt like a kid in a candy store.  It was consumer tasting time in the Grand Ballroom.  Wines from Caymus and Seghesio Family Vineyards tickled my palate, to name a few.  The Caymus Conundrum will always be a favorite of mine, with it’s juicy, rich, round palate and it’s silky, honeyed finish.  The Select Cabernet Sauvignon from Caymus was delightful as well with it’s ripe berries, spice and hints of tobacco.

On Sunday morning, I got up early (11am is early for Vegas!) to enjoy the Champagne and Jazz Brunch.  The food was an amazing cross cultural array, but the music was even better.  Everything ground to an absolute halt though when the vocalist on stage began his rendition of What a Wonderful World.  He sounded precisely like Louis Armstrong and it was mind blowing!  It was worthy of the standing ovation that it garnered.

The highlight of the weekend was the poolside wine tasting known as the “Winedown with the Winemakers”.  The sun was shining, and the water was warm, which made the wine taste even better.  I have never spent a wine tasting supine, but it turned out to be the way that things ought to be.  Five hours and a slight sunburn later, I had tasted my way through several lovely California Sauvignon Blancs and was much the better for the experience.

If you’re interested in trying something new next year, check out the link below:

http://www.goldennugget.com/LasVegas/springwinefest.asp

I highly recommend it.  In order to appreciate what we have to offer the world here in our little corner of it, it’s important to step outside our boundaries once in a while.  Now if I can just find a way to head farther south and taste a bunch of really great tequilas!

 


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